Be careful of taking Google Maps directions at face value – it doesn’t take your vehicle, your driving experience or local crime (although they are trying nowadays in Cape Town) into account when recommending a route…

We are looking for the best route between Flitwick Ranch and Matatiele, given our experience the day before when potholes were the exception, but when they did appear it was where you least expected them. Maps take us a short distance towards Kokstad and then to the right towards Matatiele, cutting out a seemingly unnecessary detour via Kokstad. As we turn right, we realise that this road is just a farm road and there is no guarantee that it is well maintained. The fact that Maps recommends it means at least there are enough vehicles using the road for Maps to be able to deduce that it is faster than going via Kokstad. But I can just guess that all these vehicles are pickup trucks driven by the local farmers who can probably drive this road blind-folded at night! 

The road is quite good initially with a very slight slope from the hills on the left towards the right where I assume a small river runs. The farms are flat and seem to be actively farmed. As we progress, the road becomes more worn and muddy due to recent rains that are draining across the road towards the river. Fortunately, today is clear skies. In the distance we can see a number of storm water pipes piled up next to the road awaiting their future deployment. I think the farmers are planning some road works there. As we reach that point, we realise why there is a need for a new drainage design. The road was a mud pool during the rains and many vehicles (we later came upon a number of big trucks that also use the road) have dug two or more deep trenches through the mud where their wheels were struggling to get a grip. The mud is now dry at the top but you do not want to follow the trenches – I am not sure how long it will take for someone to find you stranded in the veld. There is no cell phone reception. With some good aiming we traverse the mud pool and carry on.

So we drive past farm houses and it actually looks like a nice area to have a farm. Tranquil and peaceful. Eventually we can see the traffic on the Kokstad Matatiele tar road passing by in the distance. We are so close now to leaving our farm road shortcut with all its uncertainties. I make a wry joke with Anette that, imagine we get to 300 meters from the tar road and then find we cannot continue because our farm road is damaged and we have to go back all the way! The joke was still hanging in the air as we come across a donga that seems to be untraversable. We are literally 200 meters from the tar road – so near and yet so far! Fortunately, Anette says we cannot do this and that inspires the man in me to prove the opposite. A hair-raising minute or two later we have traversed the donga by driving on its edge where common sense would not allow you to. The lure of the visible tar road, not wanting to make a u-turn and pure testosterone mixed with some recklessness saved the day.

The so-called tar road to Matatiele would have been better off if it was ripped up and converted to a dirt road. We are exiting KZN using this road and it does not bode well for what is coming. We reach Matatiele a while later without incident. It is quite a big town in this vicinity and is home to the regional governmental offices. We have lunch at the petrol station and then carry on into the Eastern Cape. We are still in the foothills of the Drakensberg. Later we will be able to testify that most people in these parts of the Eastern Cape do not live in shacks but in brick houses with stunning views and that the roads, that are not in the same excellent condition as in the Western Cape, are under construction. We are pleasantly surprised!

As we approach Mount Fletcher, we see that the road is going up a steep hill that the town is built upon. Right at the bottom of the hill, it crosses a small river and then turns to the left to go up the hill which is also the main road of the town. There is a heavy tipper truck starting to take the corner uphill just after the river, moving at not more than 5 to 10 kilometers per hour. I can clearly see there is no traffic coming downhill and I take the opportunity to overtake the truck at the bottom of the hill, before we spend half a day getting to the top behind it. As I pass by the truck, I see a patrol car parked at a bus stop that I did not see behind the truck! He pulls me over.

Didn’t I see the “railings” (double lines) on the road?, he asks after leisurely walking over from the other side of the road. Secretly I have to admit to myself that if I really look closely I did see the “railings” but they are so faded that a case could be made. I am thus very surprised to learn there are “railings”, but he is not fooled or influenced by my lame excuse. I change the subject to the genuine beauty and tranquility of their region and the excellent condition of their roads compared to KZN and this sets him alight. He is very proud of the Eastern Cape and he says all bad things come from KZN – even Covid came from there! He is hungry for a deep conversation and eventually we chat like old friends with him leaning on my window sill and laughing a lot. Fifteen minutes later we are allowed to leave without a ticket! This is what Africa is about – relationships are more important than tasks.

We arrive in Maclear and stay at the Alpine B&B. Clean, well-kept and run and at the restaurant I had the best pork ribs of my life. And very affordable. Maclear is a small town and I got a good impression of it. 

So far, so good. We are impressed with these parts of the Eastern Cape. I can understand why Nombini, who works for us, always returns here for the Christmas holidays. I did not even grow up here and still the region and its people makes me feel at home.

Tomorrow we head for Hogsback…