In South Africa there are many places you can describe as one of the most beautiful places you have ever seen. But for me the view from Didima towards Cathedral Peak in the Drakensberg is probably the winner or very close to it.

We leave the Kruger National Park via the Malelane gate and take the R38 to Barberton. There are many well-kept farms along the road specialising in sub-tropical produce. This road is worn and there are many dangerous potholes. We make it to Barberton at less than 80 km/h. We do not drive through Barberton but continue with the R38 to eManzana (or Badplaas). There are many commercial forests we pass through and it is a pleasant drive. eManzana is the home of a popular hot water spring and resort but we do not have time to pay it a visit. From the outside it looks like it is still in good condition. After refueling, we continue on to Carolina. The environment is changing to one where a lot of coal is mined (like in many parts of the province of Mpumalanga). Carolina is black with coal dust from the many coal trucks that pass through. 

We take a longer but faster route via Chrissiesmeer to Ermelo. The area around Chrissiesmeer has a lot of water with the largest patch, of more than 5 km long, just outside town. It is quite a scenic area and there are a couple of wedding venues near Chrissiesmeer. The town itself is very small. The N17 to Ermelo provides little of interest to see.

We have lunch in Ermelo. It is probably the largest town in southern Mpumalanga but, as with most towns in this area, is not worth visiting from my point of view. We now get on to the N11 towards the province of KwaZulu-Natal. We do not like to drive more than about 4 hours per day and our original plan was to find accommodation for the night near Amersfoort. Anette could find nothing on Booking.com. Then she tried Volksrust a little bit further but it did not look too promising either. As we pass these two towns it was clear why she could not find any acceptable accommodation. I am pretty sure these towns were nice little towns many decades ago but nowadays they are run down. There are also quite a number of coal trucks on the N11, supplying coal to nearby power stations. I guess I should be grateful that all the coal-fired electricity I use back at home is not generated next to my home or even in the Western Cape for that matter. It is a filthy and destructive industry to say the least.

My navigator finds a nice guest house, Hutton Heights Lodge, in Newcastle. Anette is a Genius member of Booking.com and they always offer her upgrades for a discount. It is raining and we spend the remainder of the afternoon in our well-equiped room or in the dining room. The next morning we enjoy our included breakfast and then go shopping nearby for the two nights we intend to spend in the Drakensberg. Newcastle is a big town and we can shop at a modern Woolworths.

We carry on with the N11 via Ladismith and then we cross the N3 to reach Winterton. Although the roads are not in a good condition, Winterton is an interesting little town. We stop at the Pig & Plough for coffee and decide to supplement it with cheesecake. It is a quaint little restaurant and the service and cake is good.

We take the road towards Didima. In these rural areas you have to drive very carefully – children and animals are all over the place and, if that is not enough, unmarked speed bumps appear out of nowhere. The speed limit (that is, if there is one visibly displayed) is usually much higher than these speed bumps are built for – the intention is for you to slow down where children may be crossing. So if you are approaching some built-up area (and it could be a very small settlement) slow down because your car suspension will regret it! Due to recent flooding, some places in the road higher up in the mountain have lost one side of the road that slid down-hill but it is all well-marked. But the drive is not as hair-raising as it may sound. The area is so, so beautiful – small rivers running amongst the green Drakensberg foothills with small settlements spread here and there. Your soul feels nourished by what your eyes see.

We reach Didima, a rest camp of Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife. It is architecturally a very pleasing place with all its buildings having a unique design fitting the environment. The reception, restaurant and chalets are well kept and very well run. The staff is very friendly and helpful. A delicious breakfast is included for the night. 

But you have to see the view towards Cathedral Peak – it’s mind-blowing! The mountain peak towers over Didima and who-ever chose this site knew what he or she was doing. Between the camp and the mountain is a stream that you can hear running. Our bed (as is the case with most of the chalets) has a beautiful view but we got out early in the morning onto the lawn where we just assimilated the quiet view with some fog over the stream and the birds chirping away. You can just sit there the whole day although there are many things to discover including many hiking trails.

We make the difficult decision to leave after one night because, although not planned, we realise that we are close to Giant’s Castle in the Drakensberg – a place we will probably not have the opportunity to visit again (given the distance from home) unless we do it now. So we quickly pack out things. But we are leaving with a heavy heart. We will/must return in the future!